WCM Swimmer Conquers Strait of Gibraltar

Long time WCM swimmer, Dave Matthews, writes about swimming the Strait of Gilbraltar:

Strait of Gibraltar September 2009

The Strait

The Strait of Gibraltar separates Spain from Morocco ( Europe from Africa ) and connects the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea . According to the Gibraltar Strait Swimming Association, who regulate swimming across the Strait, 

“The shortest distance across the Gibraltar Strait is from Punta Oliveros ( Spain ) to Punta Cires ( Morocco ) with a total distance of 14.4 kilometers (about 9 miles). Because of the characteristics of the crossing between these two points, it is not the most suitable course for the swimmer. Most of the attempts have been made from Tarifa Island to the vicinity of Punta Cires having to swim between 18.5 to 22 kilometers due to the influence of the strong currents which prevail in the Strait.   The fundamental factor in the crossing is the current, which is almost always eastbound, and can reach more than 3 knots (5.5 Km/h). “

Spain

After months of distance training and well wishes from the coaches and many teammates, my girlfriend and I traveled to Tarifa , Spain arriving on Thursday, September 10th.  We were staying in Spain for one week, giving me seven days for the opportunity to swim the Strait. 

My first order of business was to go for a swim and then check in with Rafael Mesa of the Swimming Association.  From Rafael, I learned that there were four swimmers in the queue ahead of me and my first possible swim date would not be until Tuesday, five days away.  I also became acutely aware of why Tarifa is the wind surfing and kite surfing capital of Europe .  Strong and persistent winds were often blowing in excess of 30 mph day and night and the water was often shockingly cold (low 60’s). 

While waiting, we were able to do some sightseeing and I swam in a beautiful protected cove among thousands of fish in crystalline water.   Since the water was below the temperature threshold I had set (66 F), I decided to do the swim in a wetsuit which meant my crossing, if I made it, would be considered wetsuit assisted.  I met a Croatian swimmer, Marko Rafaj, who was also waiting to swim and was next in the queue after me.  We swam together in training a couple of times and were the same speed, so we decided we would cross together.  

As the other swimmers attempted their crossing (2 of the 4 made it across), I checked in with Raphael daily.  On Monday, Raphael said Wednesday was my new date, and then on Tuesday he moved it to Thursday. I was originally scheduled to leave on Friday.  As Thursday came and went, I changed my flight arrangements so that my last possible day to swim would be Saturday.  On Friday, the weather was stormy, so my swim was scheduled for Saturday. 

The Crossing

Friday arrived with wind and rain and I just knew that my swim date was going to be postponed again but, lo and behold, the weather forecast for Saturday was for light winds, 10-20 mph.  So the swim was on.  I was now relieved, excited, and nervous all at once.  I nervously awoke before sunrise on Saturday and took a walk and, yes, the wind had abated.  We were going to swim! 

Marko and I boarded one of the two escort boats, one pilot boat and one support boat. When we were close to our starting point, we jumped into the water, touched a large rock outcropping, and began swimming.  My first thoughts were that the water was very cold and the currents extraordinarily strong.   However, neither of us stopped and we both kept swimming. We soon passed through the strongest currents and coldest water and hit the middle of the Strait, which was surprising warm, upper 60’s, and relatively calm.  After about two hours, I took off the wetsuit and swam for the next hour and a half without it.  The water itself was a deep metallic blue and crystal clear. 

About two miles from Morocco , I felt the currents again and the water temperature dropped severely and suddenly.  I yelled some explicative’s and had the support boat toss me the wetsuit. 

With about a mile remaining, we began seeing Moroccan and Spanish Coast Guard boats near us.  We were told we had to exit the water.  We didn’t know what had happened.  When we got on board, we were told that a boat of people attempting to illegally immigrate to Europe from Africa had capsized and that they were searching for survivors and bodies.  They ended up finding 11 survivors and 8 bodies.  The remaining 20 to 40 people were lost at sea. 

The pilot boat had to find another place for us to land.  After consulting his charts to make sure we swam more than enough distance, he motored down the coast of Morocco with both of us freezing on board and getting stiffer by the minute.  After 45 minutes or so, he had us get in the water and swim to a Moroccan beach.  After 40 minutes of swimming, we touched land!  The swim was done.  My swim time was recorded in the logs as 4 hours and 46 minutes.